Blue Trout Grill – February Quick Look

Note: Sadly the Blue Trout Grill has closed it’s doors.A complete makeover for the heavy, dark pub atmosphere on the former 176 Main premises was Amy and Ryan Miller’s first agenda before opening Blue Trout Grill in Keene. Their eye for decorating is as good as their acumen in the kitchen, and the result is clean, bright, fresh and soothing, with low upholstered banquettes, cherry-wood tabletops and well-chosen art.The menu is accessible, but far from ordinary. Our party of four obligingly chose different entrées and shared bites- an attractive notion to all since deciding from the menu was not easy. My pecan-crusted rainbow trout was thoroughly satisfying, in buerre blanc laced with orange and served with an herbed risotto cake, the right touch of substance to the delicate fish.Pan-seared sea scallops with coriander were sauced with lemongrass cream, and the gingered snow peas played off well with the spice. Cedar-planked salmon was glazed with maple and bourbon and sprinkled with candied walnuts, a bit too many sweet tones for my taste, but the fish was cooked to translucent perfection.The other choices included several steak and beef dishes, and a chicken roulade – breast stuffed with applewood bacon, sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese and baby spinach. The flavors blended well, drawn together by a light, creamy Chardonnay sauce.Servings are generous, but we had heard about Amy Miller’s desserts, so shared a Chocolate Marquis – a rich dark chocolate ganache with toasted hazelnuts, served with a tart cherry compote, a good counterpoint to the chocolate.Already the buzz in Keene is that an old favorite has been replaced by a new one.- Barbara Radcliffe Rogers176 Main St., Keene, (603) 357-0087Open Monday to Saturday 11:30 am to 2 p.m.and 5 to 9 pm. Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.