Go West

Monday, August 1, 2011

The Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site is an amazing and peaceful place to explore. Photo by Stillman Rogers.

At the Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site you'll find beautifully maintained gardens featuring iconic sculptures by Augustus Saint-Gaudens. Photo by Stillman Rogers.

Before or after you explore the grounds, you can take the short guided tour of the Saint-Gaudens home. Photo by Stillman Rogers.

The Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site is an amazing and peaceful place to explore. Photo by Stillman Rogers.

Plan Ahead

Common Man Inn
Claremont
(603) 542-0647
www.thecman.com

Home Hill Inn
Plainfield
(603) 675-6165
www.homehillinn.com

North Star Canoe Livery
(603) 542-6929
www.kayak-canoe.com

Stone Arch Bakery
Claremont
(603) 542-3704
www.stonearchbakery.com

Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site
(603) 675-2175
www.nps.gov/saga

Plainfield Town Hall
(603) 675-6866
www.plainfieldnh.org
Open Sunday, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., July-Labor Day or by appointment

Explore the rural - and artsy - charm of Cornish and Plainfield.

Midsummer is made for a lazy weekend of leisurely garden strolls, admiring art and an easy paddle down the Connecticut River.

Saturday Morning

We chose Common Man Inn in nearby Claremont as a base for exploring Cornish/Plainfield and a bit of kayaking on the Connecticut River. The Home Hill Inn in Plainfield could be another fine choice, but we have not tried it yet. Skipping the complimentary breakfast we headed north on Route 120 to nosh on fresh-baked goodies at the Saturday Cornish Farmers Market in Cornish Flat. While there we gathered provender for a picnic lunch. Heading toward the river through Cornish Mills, we found two covered bridges, Blacksmith Shop Bridge, built in 1881, and Dingleton Hill Bridge, raised a year later.

Saturday Afternoon

At North Star Canoe Livery they loaded kayaks onto the shuttle that would take us to a put-in about four miles north, accessing a stretch of moving flatwater shallow enough to be free of power boats. Helped by the light current we paddled downstream, under the long 1866 Cornish-Windsor Bridge, America's longest historic covered bridge. Just beyond we stopped at Chase Island, pulling the kayaks onto the beach to eat lunch and watch a heron catch his. Back on the river, we saw more waterfowl before North Star's big red barn and beach came into view.

Dinner

A mill building adjacent to the one housing the inn is now Common Man Restaurant, with exposed brick walls and original architectural features. All that paddling worked up an appetite, so we began with Uncommon Flatbread, topped with caramelized onions, cheddar, mozzarella and Gorgonzola, before digging into braised pot roast and pan-fried Rock Crab cakes. No question why they've won "Best Crab Cakes" in this magazine's awards.

Saturday Evening

We'd arrived too late on Friday to give the inn much attention, so we settled in after dinner for a game of Scrabble in front of the fireplace in the lobby - without the fire, it being August. We retired to our large room overlooking the Sugar River Falls, whose rushing waters lulled us to sleep.

Sunday Morning

After muffins and fruit at the inn, we stopped at Stone Arch Bakery on Main Street for a picnic lunch, then headed back to Cornish. In the early 20th century an illustrious group of artists and writers built summer homes in Cornish and Plainfield, forming what was known as the Cornish Colony. They were their era's Who's Who of American Art, and included artist Maxfield Parrish and sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens, whose home and studio are preserved as Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site. After the short guided tour of his house, we explored the studio and galleries to see his work. In the beautifully maintained gardens were some of his most iconic sculptures, framed in summer flowers. Find concerts on the grounds on Sundays in August from 2 p.m to 4 p.m.

Sunday Afternoon

We decided to admire one of the state's least-known art treasures, a stage set by Maxfield Parrish in the Plainfield's little town hall. The painted backdrop depicts a mountain rising from a lake with granite boulders on its shore. Side curtains of pine, birch and maple trees frame a woodland glen, and a fluttering of colored leaves above completes the autumn illusion. It is illuminated by 25-watt bulbs on dimmer switches that bring the scene from night through dawn to midday and into blue evening shadows.