Abondánte - April Quick Look

Abondánte, a Tuscan trattoria, brings the family-style restaurant found throughout Italy to the Lakes Region. The cuisine is executed by Chef Douglas Moyer, who has trained extensively in Italy. He traveled there with Rufus Boyett by invitation of the International Trade Commission. There are 12 white-clothed tables in the main dining room and more seating is available in the bar area. The ambiance is straight-forward; a serious feeling about the food prevails. The simple décor features some wonderful old black-and-white photos of Italian street scenes. The selection of items on the menu includes antipasti, insalate, pasta, meat and fish, as well as several vegetarian choices. Feather light Crespelle filled with sausage and veal, and topped with a plum tomato and Bolognese sauce is $17.95. Freshly roasted beets, topped with crumbled gorgonzola, walnuts and balsamic vinaigrette is $8.95. On a cold and snowy night, I enjoyed a delicious braised tenderloin of rabbit, flavored with rosemary, sage and garlic in a red wine reduction, very typical of hearty Tuscan fare ($21.95). The accompanying braised baby carrots were done to perfection, but the mound of "smashed" potatoes was heavy and neither authentic nor necessary. (In Italy, the vegetables would be served separately, as "contorni.") I ordered a crisp mixed green salad to follow, a good counterpoint to the rich rabbit. The bread basket featured an excellent selection from the in-house bakery. A broad selection of Italian wines is available, both by the bottle and the glass. The wine shop below has the same owner, so no doubt the access to a nice variety of wines. The service is efficient and friendly. All breads are baked on the premises. The bakery, located beneath the restaurant, is open Tuesday through Sunday. - Barbara Lauterbach 30 Main St., Meredith, (603) 279-7177 Open Wednesday throught Sunday 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. www.abondantenh.com
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