Review of The Woodshed Restaurant in Moultonborough

The Woodshed Restaurant in Moultonborough is under new ownership. Located in a bucolic setting on Lee Road, this venerable Lakes Region institution has polished up its 19th-century farmhouse setting and is ready for the season. The garden path approach to the main entrance will soon be stunning. The Woodshed has revisited its menu, bringing back some of the old steakhouse favorites including prime rib.

My friends and I shared a favorite Woodshed appetizer, “Escargot Rockefeller” ($9.99), snails on spinach under a blanket of a rich cheddar garlic and butter sauce enhanced with a dash of Pernod. Other choices include classic French onion soup ($5.99), lobster stew ($10.99) and Maryland-style crab cake pan-fried and served with remoulade ($8.99).

The house salad (greens, shredded cheddar, green onions with house vinaigrette) would have been better if we had asked for the dressing on the side. It was overpowered by an acidic vinaigrette.

I had been looking forward to the lamb chops ($29.99), having remembered them fondly from former visits. I was not disappointed in the quality of the meat and it was cooked to perfection. The only jarring note was an unctuous barbecue mint sauce, not the subtle mint sauce I remembered — it should be served on the side. One of us enjoyed the hanger steak with bleu cheese and bacon sauce ($26.99). All entrées were served with mashed or sweet potato, or wild rice. The mashed potatoes were very over-salted but the green beans were delicious, slightly crunchy.

We each ordered dessert — for me the Indian pudding, another Woodshed classic. It is now offered in a small portion as well as the regular size, which considering the size of the lamb chops was most appreciated. It was attractively served in wine glass with a dollop each of ice cream and whipped cream. The crème brûlée was deemed very good, but the special of the evening, puff pastry with ice cream, fell flatter than a deflated popover. The pastry turned out to be more cake-like, not resembling puff pastry at all.

A comprehensive wine list is available, as well as wines by the glass.

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